Tijuana to Ensenada: The Starter Strip
Most rentals start at Tijuana's General Abelardo L. Rodríguez International Airport, where counters for Hertz, Avis, and MexRent are open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Book an economy car at least two weeks ahead; walk-up rates climb sharply in summer. The drive south on Federal Highway 1 to Ensenada takes about 1.5 hours, with two toll booths (approx. 30–50 MXN each) on the scenic toll road. Skip the free road unless you have time to spare—it adds an hour and little scenery.
In Ensenada, park near Plaza Cívica and walk the malecón rather than hunting for beach access. Gas stations along Highway 1 are plentiful; Pemex is the norm, and you should confirm the pump starts at zero. For a first night, I would book a hotel in Ensenada's Centro rather than pushing to San Quintín, which has fewer lodgings and a reputation for wind. The drive from Tijuana to Ensenada is easy, but avoid it after dark if you are unfamiliar with the road.
The Long Middle: Ensenada to Guerrero Negro
The stretch from Ensenada to Guerrero Negro is where Baja earns its reputation: roughly 560 km of desert, with the halfway point at Cataviña, a tiny oasis with a basic motel and a gas station that sometimes runs dry. Fill up in El Rosario, the last reliable services for 200 km. The road is paved but narrow in places, with no shoulder. Drive it in daylight only. Best months are November to March, when temperatures are mild; summer heat can exceed 40°C and tire blowouts are more common.
Guerrero Negro is a functional town built around the salt works, not a resort. Book ahead if you plan to stay, as rooms are limited and often full with workers. The main reason to stop here is the gray whale watching at Ojo de Liebre lagoon from January to March; tours leave from town and last about three hours. If you are not whale-watching, I would push on to San Ignacio, a palm-lined mission town 150 km southeast, which has more charm and a handful of small hotels.
The Southern Loop: Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos
South of San Ignacio, Highway 1 climbs through the Sierra de San Francisco, home to rock art sites accessible only by guided tours from San Ignacio. The road then drops to the Gulf of California at Santa Rosalía, a copper-mining town with a wooden church designed by Gustave Eiffel's firm. From there, Loreto is 220 km south; its historic center and islands are worth two nights. The drive from Loreto to La Paz takes about four hours, and the toll road into La Paz is fast but skippable if you want to stop at the beaches of Puerto Escondido.
La Paz is the best base for exploring the Sea of Cortez; ferries to Mazatlán leave from Pichilingue, 20 minutes north. Book a hotel in La Paz's Centro for walkable restaurants. The final leg to Los Cabos is a 2.5-hour drive on a divided highway; the toll is about 120 MXN. Unless you need a car for day trips, I would drop it in La Paz and fly out of Manuel Márquez de León International Airport, which has direct flights to Mexico City and Tijuana. Los Cabos has a good airport but heavy rental-car traffic and aggressive timeshare sellers.
What to Know Before You Book
Rental companies in Baja typically require a credit card for the deposit and will offer supplemental insurance; your U.S. or Canadian policy may not cover Mexico. Check with your insurer before you go, and if not covered, take the liability insurance the agency sells—it is not optional in practice. Mexican auto insurance is mandatory, and without it you risk a fine or detention. Also, many agencies prohibit taking rentals on unpaved roads, which rules out spots like Scorpion Bay unless you book a 4x4 from a specialist.
Toll roads (cuotas) are common on the main routes, and you pay in cash at booths; keep small bills handy. Gas stations are mostly Pemex, and the attendant pumps the gas—tip a few pesos. Cell coverage is spotty between towns, so download offline maps before you set out. The best time to visit is November to April for cooler weather; avoid September and October, the heart of hurricane season. For hotels, Mexico City remains the top search for our users, but Baja's own cities like La Paz and Loreto offer authentic experiences without the crowds.